Monday 20 November 2017

En Route to the Crazy Cat People.

We could say that is an unfair title for the hosts of our house and cat sit, but they are crazy about their cats in the nicest possible way (and have approved this title). With 6 rescue cats in the house, herding is a fine art. We observe all this with mild disorientation, as cats come and go in all directions, and once we have learned their names, perhaps we will feel a bit better about taking care of them.

I am sitting in their guest room   looking out the window with the last little bit of daylight, observing the stunning trees clothed in the last of their Autumn finery. Dry leaves cover the ground so that the small bare patches of green lawn are remarkable. Earlier in the day we had crunched through them, as we were taken on a 'tour' of the property.

More on that later!


How did we get here?

Well, literally by car.
We set the alarm (in Bordeaux) for 7am, hoping to beat any Sunday traffic to the roads and thereby giving us more space to make any mistakes, as we negotiated the sometimes confusing one way streets out of the city of Bordeaux.
It was foggy, 0C, and the further inland we drove, the colder it got, and there was heavy frost on the ground. The temperature dipped to -2C, before the sun burned off some of the fog and we could finally see where we were going, and some of the countryside.
Just outside of Bordeaux, the city.
 Yes, that is FROST! -2C!
 Though the sun was up, it was most definitely not getting through the thick fog, for some time yet.
 When the fog finally cleared and the warmth hit the countryside, the views were glorious.
Rumor has it that the older of these plane trees were planted along these roads to provide shade for Napoleon's marching armies. How stunning are the colors! The vines are everywhere....this is BORDEAUX baby!
 Our direction of travel was just west of the Parc Naturelle, Limousin/Perigeaux. We had to introduce ourselves to the caretakers of our January House sit and to find out a few things before driving eastward to our current house sit. We had the GPS coordinates for the property, otherwise it would be difficult to find....this despite the directions of the owners, who are Scottish (him) and Dutch (her).
This pretty place is Aulaye. We had to go down to the river and take a look at the beach. Yes, a river on a beach. They have them on lakes, here, also. The River is the Dronne.
 This is a swimming hole in summer and there is an adventure park, touring car park, Camping Car hook-ups and toilets etc.

 Moving eastward from there...Frost is still on the ground, and it is now 0C.
 There it is! This is a new build with the most stunning views out over the countryside. They have a long way to go to finish the home, but it is perfect!

 Part of the view from the large deck.
 It is a very modern 'Kiwi' kind of home. The sort Waz and I might build. Simple and with stunning views. What more could you want?
 A friend of their decided to design this Kitchen island on wheels out of packing fruit crates. They had inherited the grey and white marble slab in the middle, and the friend incorporated it into the design.
 Down the road a wee way, is this old bread oven. You can find them everywhere, with many of them still working and in great order.
 More of the gorgeous view.
 This is the view through the trees of the back side of the Hotel de Ville in Aulaye. It looks like a Chateau...
Here is the front side!

 A typical farm house along the route.
 This is medieval Abbaye and Chateau country, and there were plenty of both. Some older than others, of course, and some in complete ruins. Being the photographer and the driver, I had to stop and take most of these photos, which rather slowed down our progress.

 These amazing chalk rock faces hand right over the road in some places. We had watched some deer leap across the meadow below our friends place, and could hear shots in the background. Hunting season began in November. Evidence of Hunters is everywhere. You can see them in their camouflage jackets and neon sleeveless vests, skirting the forests.
 We are now in the National Parc, and climbing in elevation.

 Chateau on the hillside. I wasn't able to find a sign to tell us what it was.
 As we entered Brantome, and even though I had expected to see the houses carved into the rock faces, they were still a surprise to me.
 What a delightful place, Brantome is. It must be hell in summer with the crowds, however. Hardly anyone around on a Sunday, and certainly few places open for food and coffee.

 You literally drive through the grounds of the Abbaye de Brantome.

 I had to keep stopping in the middle of the road to take photos. This makes Waz a bit nervous, but no traffic was up my butt, as it were, so I felt quite at liberty to do so. We will get back to Brantome in the near future, and perhaps we will walk these ancient cobbles then.

As I said, we drove through the grounds of the Abbaye de Brantome. The river is on the right.


 Out the other side, and we are headed for a café somewhere. It is 1.20pm, and breakfast didn't happen, so this is brunch/lunch.


 We parked the car on the road we would take out of this town, and walked back to a bridge that would take us to the main street.

 Looking back across the river, you can see the huge overhang of the rock...very chalky...and plenty of homes and other buildings carved into the rock.
 Only a few hardy souls were out in this very cold weather. Fortunately it is dry cold, so we don't feel as cold as if there was some humidity. A couple of cafes open, but they didn't encourage us to go in for coffee...they wanted patrons to eat a meal. Fair enough.
 This store was closed, but their famous Ham - half salt, 14, eur kg, was in the window. It looks wonderful. Shaved!
 At the end of the row of houses and shops, the Abbaye loomed large, across the river.
 It has been well preserved and renovated.
 In summer there is plenty of boat traffic on the river.

We met a lovely couple and their one year old looking for the same as us...a coffee or beer, in the warmth. They spoke excellent English, and we enjoyed our conversation so much that we all went into the hotel at the far end of the street, for just that...coffee and beer for them. Waz and I wanted food, and I could only think of a Tarte Citron, to order. This is what came out...and VERY expensive at 11 euros EACH. 22 euros for two tarte!! Outrageous!
 At least our café grand crème was hot and plenty of it. Our new friends enjoyed their beers and fed their happy wee boy, who loves to eat. Julien is French, and Franzi is German. Their cutie is called Archille (Are Sheel). We found out that they live not far from where we are currently, and we promised to get in touch and enjoy a meal together. What delightful company they were, and we look forward to that. Julien has lived in such diverse countries as Bangladesh, China, and England and has visited downunder also. Franzi is well travelled also.
 We left them and the warmth of the hotel around 3pm, now very conscious of the promised mid-afternoon arrival time we had given our hosts. We had about 30 kms to travel now
This pretty scene is across the river from the hotel.
 If you go to Brantome, be aware that this hotel charges plenty for food and drink! It was very nice, however.
I didn't have time to stop for more photos on the way to our house sit, so there are no more today.
We were very warmly welcomed by our hosts and their kitties, and we enjoyed a lovely dinner, wine and dessert. After sitting around the fire in the evening, we slept like babies, and woke recharged!
More tomorrow.

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