Bordeaux to Paris. Our last 2 days in France (for now).

 You may think this photo is odd...or that the floor of this shower is rather dirty. You would be correct on both counts, actually. It is odd to lead off a blog with a photo of a dirty shower floor, but the fact that the shower floor is this dirty is new in and of itself. Confused? Good.

We find that cleanliness is highly subjective both in practice and in theory. That this is the shower in a reputable French hotel (not French brand, I might add), albeit a brand of 'small' hotels with 'small' rooms (I kid you not, on the latter) makes the fact that this shower stall is really dirty even more disgusting. I might just send this photo to their head office. I was appalled to find it thus, on entering our hotel room.
We have struck this many times in our travels in France. Cleanliness seems to be singularly lacking. At least our definition of cleanliness. Public toilets (when you can find them) are not pleasant places, and places like airports (Charles de Gaulle in particular) has no soap dispensers in it's bathrooms, just water, and an air dryer. No paper, which I find rather ironic in a country hell bent on reducing waste, yet we find we have more recycling there than we do in the USA.
So, back to the cleanliness of hotels...or lack thereof. This one is in Bordeaux. Will I name the Hotel? Ok...Ibis Styles, Gare St Jean, Bordeaux.
Previously we stayed in the Ibis Budget, just around the corner, and I think the shower stall there was cleaner, though the toilet wasn't. Never mind that the Hotel chain is renowned for its low prices...not that I call 98 euros per night low, in the scheme of things, but we managed to get a special price of 44 euros for our first two nights in the Budget Hotel. The room isn't large enough to swing a kitten, let alone a cat, but we aren't there all day, as I think I have mentioned before, so as long as the bed is comfy, we don't really care. I do care, however, if the bathroom facilities are clean!

Ok..I'll leave that one now and carry on.
With our bags already packed before going to bed, we were ready to leave Bordeaux for paris. Our TGV train wasn't going to be a fast one this time, with stops along the way, but we didn't mind. We had nothing else to do, and an extra day in Paris up our sleeves, the next day. No rush.
This is our favorite restaurant opposite the Train Station in Bordeaux. We have had a few meals there now, and enjoyed all of them. The Taverne du Midi.

 It rained! And it rained some more...heavily! The pavement was awash, and we wished we didn't have to run our bags through all that water, on the way to the station.
As usual we were early. Sitting around waiting can drive us nuts! I have to get up and move, so I go walking around the station, camera in hand, enjoying the sights and sounds, the quirky, the beautiful, the interesting and sometimes just the colors...of everything.
Crowds came and went. They all bunched around the screens announcing the departures and arrivals of the various trains, and we sat and watched with the rest of them.
I made the mistake of putting our bags on seats. I was slowly but surely edged out, and in the end, squished between two people who made it plain that my bags should not be on the seats, those were for people to sit on. Ok...message received!
Shops selling specialty items around the outside.

Before checking out of the hotel (we had until noon) we walked in the rain across to the nice restaurant inside the Train station and sat at the bar for brunch. The menu was limited, and I didn't bother taking photos, sorry. We ordered Grand Crème, of course, and now neither of us can remember what we ate! For shame. This is what happens when I don't take photos, and too many days pass before I write it all up!

I walked around the shops in the station, buying a Newsweek and a Time magazine...in English, which set me back 11euros! ouch! but it did provide some reading matter on the train and again on the plane, two days later.

Plenty of sweet treats being sold in the specialty shops.

 These Canales ( Can nelaye) are a Bordeaux specialty, and come in many flavors. I could also buy copper moulds in the shop, but they would set me back a pretty penny.

 Waz reading Time magazine while guarding our bags. We got squeezed out!

 Now on the TGV train. We learned that first class is more comfy than cattle class, and were satisfied with our accommodations for the 3 hour trip from Bordeaux to Charles De Gaulle Airport, Paris. We decided to stay there instead of our usual place in Montparnasse.

 First class train travel. Pretty comfy.

 It rained most of the way, and was cold! Looking out the window didn't reveal much other than dreary grey and cold cities and towns, farm buildings in the middle of large expanses of crop fields and occasional vehicles on lonely roads.

 The train we had just arrived on at the Airport train station. It is quite an architecturally interesting building.

 The Ibis Styles Hotel at CDG is relatively new, with a Star Wars theme, which was interesting. Our nightly rate included a very comprehensive breakfast, which we enjoyed two mornings.
This was our room! At least it was a little larger than the previous ones we had enjoyed.

 The closet!..yep!

 Arriving just after 7pm, meant we were in the dark, literally, when we arrived at the hotel. Waz had done his homework per usual and found where we had to go to find this place. We caught the automated tram to Roisseypol station (warzypol) and walked 400 meters, and voila! Ibis Styles Hotel. Modern (ish), full up to busting with new arrivals at the tiny check in desk. We waited our turn, found our room and then went out for dinner. Waz again came through with the reviews on the food available for purchase at the hotel restaurant as being nothing flash at huge prices...think Captive Audience desperate for food and nowhere else to go!
He ascertained that the hotel across the forecourt, the Pullman Hotel, had a restaurant that was more worthy of our time and euros, and so we went there. FASCINATING!

One of the many lovely decorations. Room rates at this hotel run in the high 200 euros per night. This is where the Emirates Airline staff stay when in town!

 It was more classy all around, to our way of thinking, and the menu was 'interesting' to the point of not being able to make an easy decision. Waz chose whole Young Chicken with a bowl of small roasted potatoes...eh? yes. No other veg, and you have to choose and pay for any veges that you want in addition to the meat. Hmm....but the taties were really nice. His chicken was well cooked and he enjoyed his meal, except there was nowhere to put the bones...minor in the scheme of things? Not if you have nowhere to put them! lol.
My 'SALAD' was one like I have never experienced before.
Avocado, white beans with pomegranate seeds and acai berries, baby spinach, wilted kale and deep fried kale for garnish, baby green beans and something else I cant remember. Again, not appropriate to be taking food photos in this place. I have to admit to the salad being a wonderful laxative, lol. Excellent prior to long airline travel!
Thus satisfied, we headed back to our hotel. We sat in the lounge area with a free cup of tea, and then off to bed. We didn't have to rise early because we had the day to ourselves. Intending, if the weather was nice, to trot into Paris central, we would make that decision on the morrow.

See what I mean about the Star Wars theme?? Yoda kept tabs on the free drinks section.

It was freezing cold outside and wet...very wet. Running between hotels was relatively dry, but the huge overhang between the two didn't keep us entirely dry.

We slept well, and came downstairs for breakfast later than anticipated, at 9.30am. Breakfast was on until 10am, so we just made it!

Breads of all kinds including sweet loaf varieties, mini viennoise (croissants and Pain chocolat) cereal that had sugar mixed in, and fruit salad (not fresh, strangely), meats, cheeses, yoghurts and hot drinks out of a dispensing machine. What more could we ask for??:)

Today with the high winds and freezing cold we made the decision not to spend 40 euros return journey into Paris, and instead took the opportunity to go back into the Airport terminals and really take a long walk around and discover where secrets. Normally we arrive and head to the train station and leave. Today was quite a revelation, Im happy to report.

We love the automated tram system between the terminals. It is quiet and fast. 

Here is the tram in the station.

 We sat up front and watched the tram cross effortlessly on the tracks.

 I doubt there is any airport in the world that doesn't have construction of some kind, going on.

 Plenty of food, of course. They are expensive though. Those captive markets are there to be exploited, obviously. A plain Croissant which we would normally pay .90 euros for in a Boulangerie, are 1.80euros here.

 Macarons were larger, but also pricier.

 Love some of the signs! When we got onto the tram, a Chinese man with a large suitcase offered me his seat, having already sat down. Kind of him, and I didn't take it, but when we got off the tram, he rather steamrollered his way through the crowd, and we watched with some amusement that he almost toppled a few people on his way.

 Processes are endlessly fascinating, and this airport has refined some of those processes well. The tram system being one of them.

 See what I mean about the interesting architecture? This is the Train Station at Charles de Gaulle Airport.

 It is lovely and light, ,but does echo horribly.

 This Sheraton Hotel wasn't there last year, so we were interested to see how it was inside. The Christmas trees beckoned me into the foyer. Waz waited outside.

 We stopped at a Starbucks for a Latte...11 euros for two...ouch!  We sat and watched travelers and were somewhat pleased that we didn't have to go anywhere in particular, today.

We spent about 2 1/2 hours walking around two terminals, and found a restaurant that looked like we might enjoy an evening meal there. Frenchy's Restaurant didn't disappoint, when we returned to Terminal 2 for our evening meal.
I ordered a chicken breast with sweet potato schmear (you know how they plop puree on the plate and then smear it across the rest of the plate? Its called a SCHMEAR! lol.
AND...they also had deep fried cubed (parmentier) sweet potatoes in a tiny metal basket. No greens. Chicken and sauce and Sw. potato 2 ways.

Waz enjoyed his Lamb shank which fell off the bone, with a dark gravy and a normal white potato schmear. That was it! No greens...and two TINY tomatoes.
We had a glass of white wine to finish our stay in France, and home on the tram to Roisseypol terminal station.
Glad to be inside with the freezing cold out.
Coffee at the free drink station, a sit before bed, and an early start the next day.
That wind was vicious! The Christmas trees at the front entry to the Hotel all fell over.

We had a 5am start to our travel day, and were downstairs for breakfast, which opened at 4.30am. Others had already started their meals, and we joined a growing number eating so early. By 6.15am we were out the door with our luggage and on the final leg of our homeward journey. It was with mixed feelings that we were leaving.
Our flight to Newark, USA was 9.25am, and we had a bit of waiting around. We were glad to be there plenty early and get ourselves through security etc and able to relax.
I don't know why I am always earmarked for extra security checks, but they did the whole body run over, on me. Waz gets to wait and watch! ha!
The food on the flight was forgettable...salty and dry, a scamble with cheese and potatoes wasn't nice even. That was followed some time later with an ice-cream of British origins, Toffee flavored with nice crunch bits was the best part of that meal. An hour before touch down in Newark they issued us a dry roll with turkey and cheese in it...somewhat warmed. Blech!
Two good things about arriving back in the USA:
1. Plenty of toilet stalls in the bathrooms, and SOAP!
2. People who smile. (French people aren't naturals when it comes to smiling! Who knows why?)

I'm sure I could make a long list, but those were the most outstanding, lol.

2 1/2 hours waiting for our flight from Newark to Jacksonville, and arriving there around 7pm, meant it was already dark...though we were treated to a glorious sunset, while in the air.
Waz had uploaded the UBER app before we left home, and we used that to efficiently find transport back to the boat for very little money...$24! I tipped the cheerful and 'really nice' driver, and was happy to do so. I'm not a tipping kind of person, so he must have been nice:)

It was nice to get back to a sweet smelling, dry boat that had been just been washed on the outside. I did make the request from our caretaker and it was so nice to find our baby clean.

De-bagging was quick and painless, but now the boat is full of 'stuff' again. We will have to de-stuff as we have a broker coming this weekend to take a look at her.
Sleep was welcomed, in our own bed, and we were in bed by 8.30pm. Waking at 4 the next morning, we realize this jet lag thing will take us week. Never the best part of coming home, we adjust and drink coffee! What else can you do at 4am?

The past two days have been spent doing chores, going to appointments, laundry (at 5am!) and sorting out the food requirements. We did a Sams run today, and of course my membership had run out, so our bill was greater than expected, with the additional membership $ tacked on. Oh well, we have that for another year, and we did get a bonus check from them to offset the fees.
Soup made and consumed, more food filling the fridge, and the prospect of some stew in the slow cooker tomorrow. Things are back to normal, methinx.
Time to get some sleep. We slept 10 hours last night, so are feeling less spacey tonight.
We have plenty of pre-Christmas celebrations to attend to this coming week, so we are going to be busy.
Night, night.

Marche de Noel - Bordeaux. Christmas Market!

Jingle Bells, Bordeaux smells, mightily of Nutella...ok, that doesn't rhyme, but anyone would think Nutella was the ONLY chocolate that might be able to be schmeared on anything. Maybe it is?

Now we are in Bordeaux, the city, our bags are dropped at the hotel and we are in need of exercise, having sat in the car all day, and it is 3.30pm. What else do you do, on such a dull day? Why, walk of course.
Bordeaux invites you to walk to the Old Town, and we seek out the river to guide us that way. Waz had something in mind, this day, so we walked a good way along the river, but across the road. Ok...I have to tell you that he sought the Gelato Shop! There, I said it!
THEN, he says, I saw the Carousel on the river side of the road, we crossed over there, and that was the end of his Gelato dreams. My mistake, apparently:)
First, we had to walk about a kilometer up the road, and so much to look at that we have seen before, but not necessarily noticed. Small things like this natural scene. That is a real tree and a real sign (blue) but someone has tried to get rid of the graffiti, without succeeding. Along with the fence, it is very artful, to me.

 This scene is very stark, to me, and certainly didn't invite me to sit down. It was cold of course, but not at all inviting.

 We saw many of these Santas, all over.lol.

 I think these were the most Christmas Deco's that we saw in one place, anywhere.

 No,  this is not the Louvre, this is where the loooong line of people waiting to get into the Taste of Bordeaux, began.

 It seemed to go on forever, and though it was really cold, people were lined up waiting for the event to open at 5pm.

Further up the road and we kept crossing the Tram lines. This tram is going down the lovely allee of trees.

 There were people everywhere. It was Saturday, and we didn't expect to see these crowds, not knowing what was going on in the city, and really not anticipating what was to come next, which rather blew us away.

 This was the carousel which took the place of the quest for the Gelato!

 I hadn't seen one like this before, and obviously it was delightful. Cold, right beside the river, but plenty of families taking rides and enjoying the food from the mobile trucks and caravans around it.

 Candy/Chocolate apples in this truck.

 Oh boy! Look at these! How to explain them...remember that remark about chocolate/Nutella.
These square things in the foreground are called Gauffre (gofre)...or Waffles. They are covered with cream, chocolate, caramel, chocolate candies and marshmallows etc. some were even chocolate dipped before adding everything else. blimey! BURP! The Churro-like things are filled with or slathered with Nutella/caramel etc. Lots of people eating them. Phew!

Ok, enough of grossly over-dressed food that we only thought possible in the US of A...But we don't see many obese people here, so there is SOME difference.
With so many people out walking and enjoying their time outdoors, we were heartened that even though the temperatures weren't wonderful, they weren't as cold as where we had come from. Being on the coast (almost), there is this maritime climate that means less cold, all the way north.

 We crossed back across the tram tracks that run parallel to the river, and perpendicular to the line, and down the row of Grenier Sales, or Brocante Sales. Grenier is Attic, whereas Brocante is more Junk and Antiques. Lots of both, all the way down the row. Food at this end, though. Again, Nutella was being slathered on EVERYTHING> Aiee!

 These are definitely Antiques.

 LOVED some of these Picture Frames.

 Chairs, rugs, chandelier, clocks, china, you name it!

 More food. We turned left at the bottom of the Brocante row, and found more food. More Nutella being slathered in everything, and crepes, beignets, waffles/gauffre etc. There were candied nuts of all kinds, candy cane, candy floss...

 Gyros  - meat and onions in a lovely large pan.

 This would be wrapped in a flatbread or Pita.

Turn right around and this is what you see! Except the fountain wasn't playing and the pool was empty. Winter, anyone?

 So much sugar being consumed, and so many people out enjoying the milder temperatures and this being Saturday, whatever festivities were going on in the middle of this city.

 People (including us) watched transfixed by the change taking place in the boiled sugar, as this young woman stretched it over the hook, again and again, eventually producing the gorgeous sheen you can see here. They were making those sweets you see above and behind her head, and also other boiled sugar candies.

 Turning left again up the next line of tents housing gorgeous food products. Many of them regional. This is Bayonne Ham, I believe.

 Pickled vegetables, mustards of all kinds, wine, foie gras, and those hanging meats are Ham...Bignalet brand, obviously.

 These specialty hams are carved and/or sliced VERY thinly and are enjoyed with bread, mustard, cheese and plenty of wine. Good idea!

 Tired of all the food....did I just say I was tired of food??? WOW! Must be ill!!....we crossed over the tram tracks, amazed at the little train that was full to overflowing...families, mostly, and made our way further inland from the river.

 What is this?? OH! Christmas Market!!! YES!
It is funny that I had long ago remarked on Facebook that I was excited that we would have the opportunity to visit Christmas Markets, and yet we had been unlucky to date, missing most of the Dordogne ones by hours or days. We were rather bummed to be missing our local Christmas market, but here we were in the thick of it...and You have NO idea just how thick that was. Waz and I cannot remember EVER having been in crowds like that. It was full to overflowing. First, we had to join the long queue to enter the fenced off market, and be searched. Plenty of security, which made us feel safe, but we actually didn't really give it all much thought, other than initially, which I have to admit doesn't make me feel very good now, in retrospect. We had kind of made a pact between ourselves that we would stay to the edges of any crowds, while travelling, and especially stay out of crowded places where there were no exits obvious. Hmm...next time we will pay more attention. This evening we rather got carried away (well I did! lol) by the whole event, the products on offer, the whole atmosphere which was fun and casual and child oriented...yes, people took their newborns out in this craziness! It was about 5pm by now, and the light was waning.

 The line to get through security, by the large red Entrée sign in the distance.

 Once inside, having opened our bags to display their contents to security and to also have a wand waved over us, we walked along the first line of kiosks. The whole affair is very well organized so, top marks to whoever does that. I think the City of Bordeaux is responsible, now that I think about it.

 Art, jewelry,leather goods, food of any and all kinds, Hot Wine (Vin Chaud), more food, candy, you name it!

 Those balloons were amazing in their varied shapes. Plenty of Santas in that lot.
The temperature was cooling as the light faded.

 A Provence specialty is this Pate de Fruit (fruit paste). It a sugary gel candy made with real fruit, so that the flavors are strong and divine. The foreground flavor is Pear (poire), then Fraise (strawberry).

Another Provencale specialty is the Calisson. These are HUGE! Normally you buy little pastilles - they are marzipan topped with a candy-like sugar topping. They are delicious, and like nothing else you can find anywhere. LOVE marzipan!

 It came as some surprise to see all the Macramé...it isn't dead after all:)

 We forgot to bring our letters to for SANTA, but there were plenty who did:)

 The line to get photos taken with Santa was long and bustling with kids. None of them were screaming, which interested us. All well behaved!

 Lots of Disney carousel rides for kids.

 Light still good enough...and the crowds were growing.

 These fabulous little figures are also from Provence. They are Santons.

 German/swiss specialty cookies and stolen. SOO tempting to buy a stolen, but we already had so much food to transport home.

 Beautiful Mohair everything.

 Montreal Maple Syrup!

 Don't you love the large distinguished building in the background!

 Balloon lights?

 We were...well, make that I was....tempted to try on the hats. I don't look good in hats generally, but Waz does....and oh dear...we could definitely have used our French Berets! Those wool hats are essential in these cold winds.

 I wondered if people were actually paying this elderly man to stop playing. It was excrutiatingly horrid.

 These 'sandwiches'...yes, sandwiches! are then put in the panini press to heat.

 These fish and chips are made by an English couple. They didn't look very inviting. Besides, who wants to eat English food in Bordeaux?? Hmm...English people of course! They don't always like what the French eat.

 Did I say Carousels?

 Light is obviously going...and I was on the move all the time, so there were plenty of out of focus photos, lol....sorry!

 Lots of people eating dinner, drinking mulled wine and enjoying the whole market atmosphere.

 I caught one of the servers pouring MORE wine into the pot. They were selling it like...well..hot wine! (no potatoes were harmed in the process!)

 You could have Savoyard Hot Dogs...not sure what they taste like, but interesting all the same...same as Savoryard hamburgers.

 Oh boy! We had to have one of these ...well, each. At 1 euro each they didn't break the bank, but they weren't quite what we expected.

 These things are large, to begin with. They are marshmallow topping a cookie kind of base...but not a cookie. Cant describe it really, but it wasn't that hard like a cookie. Anyway, using my favorite word, let me describe these two things. The one on the left is a Run/almond marshmallow 'bomb' enrobed (there's the word!!!) in dark chocolate and sprinkled with almond flakes. The one on the right is an orange flavored mallow bomb enrobed in dark chocolate. When you bite into them, you don't get a hard smooshy marshmallow, so much as a light, wet (not runny tho) marshmallow kind of stuff, sweet, sticky (easy to get it all over you!) and a bit too sweet for our liking. We wouldn't go back for more, but it was fun trying them. The orange one was the winner of the two.

 This stall was filled with gorgeous looking specialty breads and cookies etc from the Aveyron region, in the Department just north of Toulouse and Montpellier, on the south eastern side of the country,

 The plum tarte on the left looked delicious, and the sugar covered break couronne looked wonderful.

 We had to move away from all the food....there is only so much you can eat, and we had a favorite restaurant in mind for our dinner.
Don't you love the storks!...well, they are plastic, but I would have those on my chimney stack.

 This Santa was little hung up!

 ...and this Santa might have a higher voice in the morning!

 NOW we get into the serious Wazzy stuff....He is a Nougat lover. We didn't sample this, just because we wouldn't have room for dinner, if we did. It looked fabulous though. Fresh Nougat is wonderful...seriously wonderful!

 I did try the dried meat on the left...it was a bit salty for my liking, but had lovely flavor. The cheese on the right was good too!

 These are Touron Basque. It is a candy made from honey and almonds, similar to an almond paste or marzipan. Plenty of different flavors, but we didn't try them either..

 What French pastry stall would be complete with out the ubiquitous Macaron? These were delightful dainties. The serving person is putting Financiers in a plastic tube, and they were also selling madeleines. Yum!

 Finally...Candy apples! The real deal. Nope, we didn't eat those either!

We had had enough of THAT crowd, and the worms were biting (hungry) so we decided to make our way back towards the hotel and the restaurant for dinner. 

The bikers were out in the square next door to the market, all dressed as Santa and their bikes were somewhat decorative...some of them, anyway.

 The gap between the two buildings marks the beginning of Saint Catherine Street...well, Rue Saint Catherine, actually. It appears to be the premier shopping street in the city center, and goes on forever. We knew we could get back to the hotel simply by going all the way to the end of the street.

 Lights all over this building. Very pretty.
We thought we had seen crowds at the market....we hadn't seen ANYTHING yet!

 Can you see the wall to wall people down there?

 This is on Rue Saint Catherine and it was closed to anything other than foot traffic, and it was almost terrifying to try to go against the crowd. Why did we try? Well, we could have taken one of the parallel streets, but for some reason, this was an extraordinary event, and we just had to be in the middle of it.

 Different decorated trees in different squares. Once out of the main drag, the crowds thinned and it was easier going...we felt we could breath again.

 This was the lighted tree just outside the Marche des Capucins. The market we had walked through the first day we arrived in Bordeaux, 3 1/2 weeks earlier.

 Dinner: Our favorite restaurant is just opposite the Train Station, and though it isn't anything truly special, we like their food and the service is pretty good, compared to most places. They are very tourist oriented, and most of the staff speak English. Not that we want that, and we did reject the English menu when it was offered, asking instead for the French version.
We decided, after much perusing, that the Formule Menu was by far the least expensive option, this evening.
Waz is a Duck Man, and I's a Salmon Woman, lol. Entrée choice was Duck pate for him, and Salmon and Cocquille Saint Jacques cru, or raw, with a light basil pesto, lemon wedge and green salad, same as Waz got with his pate and gherkin. We received a basket of baguette...this time the bread was reasonably fresh. Waz enjoyed his starter, as did I. I would order this same dish again...it was light and very tasty.

 Sans Citron (without lemon)..the salmon was on top with the scallop on the bottom. A kind of thin toast thingy on the bottom.

 And again, the Duck confit for Waz, avec Frites (of course!) and salad.

 I chose the Pave of Salmon with wild rice. The yellow sauce was interesting....I don't know what the flavor was, but it went well with the salmon and rice. I didn't taste the tomato thing in the other small dish. Salad was necessary too. We enjoyed the fresh greens. Salmon was slightly overcooked, but it was still moist. Fresh caught Atlantic Salmon!

 Waz REALLY enjoyed his duck:)

 Of course we enjoyed a bottle (well, large carafe, actually) of white wine (sauvignon blanc I think) to go with the food which was twice as much as we would normally have, but with only a short walk to the hotel, why not!
Dessert: Apple tarte with crème and caramel for Waz...

 ...and Mousse Chocolat for me, of course...with cream...of course:)

Delightful meal 15.99 euros each, with a 12euro carafe of wine (two glasses each). We felt highly satisfied with our choices. Confit de Canard (duck) is normally 15euros on it's own, so three courses for this prices was excellent value.

We went for a walk afterwards, as eating this late is not really good for sleeping. We only had the extremely small hotel room to return to, and then sleep.
We had returned the car, so our train journey to Paris the following afternoon meant we had a leisurely morning ahead of us. More to come!